The itinerary: starting from the beach of San Carlos, it takes in several iconic beaches on the way to Portinatx.
What you'll get: stunning coastline, winding country roads, turquoise-coloured waters, landmarks and pitstops for food.
Essential accessories: a good camera, beach gear, your playlist of choice, cash for bar drinks, sunscreen, map app (take a phone charger if using the latter).
The Route
Ibiza is an island best explored by road, and our northeast route is a good example of why. The closest car rental company we recommend is Autos Marí - located in the town of Santa Eulalia. The scenic route itself winds through pine-covered hills and picturesque countryside towards a string of quieter coves and coastal viewpoints.
Start in San Carlos
We set off from San Carlos, one of the island’s most characterful villages and a former meeting point for Ibiza’s hippie community. First things first, though, we did a breakfast pitstop at Las Dalias Café to refuel before heading towards the coast.
From San Carlos, we followed the winding road towards Cala Leña. It is a broad sandy beach backed by woodland, with a long wooden walkway and a beach bar. It was the first of our beachstops before continuing north towards the smaller coves and rural landscape around Pou des Lleó.
Rural roads and an old watchtower
The tiny coastal route to Pou des Lleó should be taken slowly. We went by day, but, if you happen to be in the area on a full moon night, the sight of it - huge and golden - rising from the sea where the road runs along the cliff before going inland is simply unforgettable.
At Pou des Lleó, the tiny bay is surrounded by a rugged coastline and traditional fishermen’s huts. From here, we did a mini excursion to the Torre de Campanitx, an 18th-century watchtower built as part of Ibiza’s coastal defence system against pirate attacks.
The tower sits above the coastline and is one of several reminders that these seemingly peaceful shores were once vulnerable to raids. The surrounding landscape is equally rewarding, with views of the private island of Tagomago.
A little further along, the resort of Es Figueral offers a more relaxed, family-friendly stretch of coastline. Its long, golden-sand beach is backed by rocky cliffs and pine-covered hills, with shallow turquoise water (ideal for the little ones) and views towards the private islet of Tagomago. The small resort also has a handful of restaurants and bars, while the surrounding countryside is well suited to walking and cycling.
Aguas Blancas and the changing coastline
The iconic beach of Aguas Blancas is one of Ibiza’s best-known beaches and a long-time favourite with naturists. The beach sits below high cliffs, with striking white rock and clear water giving the area its name.
However, Aguas Blancas is unfortunately off-limits as of writing (summer 2026). The access road and car park are closed because of the increased risk of rocks falling from the cliffs, and there are no municipal services or lifeguard cover. The area is clearly signposted, and visitors are advised to respect the restrictions rather than attempt to reach the beach.
Cala San Vicente
From Aguas Blancas, we drove towards Cala San Vicente, navigating several very tight switchbacks on the way as the road skirts the coast. The descent towards the bay eventually opens up to a wide view of brilliant blue water framed by pine-covered slopes.
Cala San Vicente has a long sandy beach and a promenade lined with restaurants and bars, with plenty of choice ranging from traditional Ibizan cooking and local fish to Mediterranean and international fare.
Into the hills
Leaving Cala San Vicente, the road took us inland towards the charming village of San Juan (include a visit to its Sunday artisan's market, if you can), winding through some of the north’s most dramatic countryside. It is a twisting mountain road with numerous sharp bends, so drivers should take it slowly and allow plenty of time for the journey.
The terrain here is a reminder that Ibiza is not simply a coastal destination. Steep hills, pine forests and old agricultural terraces give way to quieter rural roads, with traditional stonework still visible on the slopes. The historic terracing is particularly interesting.
Long before tourism arrived, these hills were cultivated, with farmers using dry-stone walls to create level areas for growing crops. The landscape still carries traces of that agrarian past.
Just as you descend to the village of San Juan, you will pass a traffic light - turn right there onto another similarly twisting route, the old Portinatx road (Carretera Vella de Portinatx). Once again, stunning countryside with impressive sea views awaits you. Just a kilometre or so before entering Portinatx, we took the narrow road on the right.
Our goal lay at the end: Cala den Serra. But, beforehand, there is an interesting (optional) side quest - a track on the left leading into the forest to Ibiza's (indeed, the Balearic Islands') highest lighthouse, Far de Moscarter. We couldn't resist. Between the towering, blue-and-white striped lighthouse itself, and the spectacular vistas of the Mediterranean looking due north, it is a must-see spot.
Cala d’en Serra is reached by a narrow road descending towards the coast. The path down is not one we'd recommend doing in a hire car.
It is a small, rugged cove rather than one of Ibiza’s large resort beaches, with clear green-blue water and traditional fishermen’s huts providing a strong sense of place. It was ideal for a final dip in the Med - the snorkelling here is good.
At this point, we were in need of a bite and a refreshment. Luckily, the final destination on our roadtrip, the resort of Portinatx, is just five minutes away.
Take your time
The beauty of this road trip is that there is no need to treat it as a race from one beach to the next. The roads themselves are part of the experience, particularly where they climb into the hills and reveal glimpses of the coastline below.
Allow time for a swim at Cala Llenya or Aguas Blancas, a walk around Pou des Lleó, the Torre de Campanitx and its surroundings, lunch at Cala San Vicente and a final dip at Cala d’en Serra.
By the time you turn for home, you will have seen a side of Ibiza that feels a long way from the island’s busier resorts: pine forests, working farmland, historic defences, fishermen’s huts and a coastline that rewards a slower pace.
If you wish to continue your travels through northern Ibiza, please see our NW roadtrip.
