Positioned on the pretty tree-lined square of the picturesque village of Santa Gertrudis, The Overall delivers a complete gastronomic shift, far removed from the traditional Mediterranean and fusion restaurants that dominate much of the island's restaurant scene.
A true passion project, the concept was born from Jorge and his partner Mónica, whose Spanish roots and Peruvian have helped shape its culinary direction. Here, the focus is on fermentation, pickling, and smoking, built on years of experience, research, and experimentation. The result: an innovative menu that pays homage to these efforts, and a basement filled with an ever-growing catalogue of jars, each waiting for its moment on the plate.
The energy is also distinctly different to what you'll find elsewhere: although from speaking with Jorge, it's clear this was intentional. Here they've crafted a cool, yet unpretentious air, successfully pairing an inventive gastronomic offering with a relaxed, laid-back dining experience.
Dimly lit, the seating area is framed by artistically painted walls, adorned with hanging skateboards and heavy draped curtains. At its heart, the open kitchen and aptly named 'inappropriate' bar are filled with theatre. Here, Jorge's collection of alcoholic and non-alcoholic formulas awaits their mix, between his switches of vinyl records, played on the vintage 1960s Japanese speakers.
They've got something going on here. It's a dining space that wouldn’t be out of place in London’s cool and creative Shoreditch district.
As we settled onto our high stools, we broke into our appetiser - a fresh, warm homemade roll with cultured smoked butter - and also into conversation with Jorge about the ethos behind the omakase experience they offer here.
“The worst thing about hospitality is doing the same thing every day", he told us, which is why they created an evolving menu that allows them to work with local farmers, seasonal produce, and high-tech preserving technology.
The omakase (served Friday and Saturday nights) offers between six and eight dishes each evening, with no two menus being the same, available in either vegan or carnivore (fish-based) options.
Listening to Jorge explain how they have cultivated this experience was fascinating. Seaweed is used in place of salt, while evaporation and redistillation help to extract and preserve the essence and individual notes of each ingredient. To further deepen the taste, they work with garum, a fermented fish sauce used in Ancient Rome and Greece, which acts like an umami flavouring.
These techniques are also favoured for their speciality and very signature cocktail list. For this, you’re invited to tell Jorge your favourite tipple, which he will then expertly rustle up with his own collection of vaporised and distilled spirits. Above, the 'spicy margarita' was deliciously sleek, tart and spicy, while the ‘negroni’ doubled down on aromatic flavour, for a rich and perfumed interpretation.
Our first step in this seven-part series began with dry-aged, silky, and smooth Hamachi prepared with compressed apple and hing. An Indian spice, hing is made from dried tree resin and adds a slight warmth against the sweet apple, balancing the dish perfectly.
Served in a beautiful, light miso, soya sauce, and Szechuan pepper broth, the rice triangle was filled with smoked mushrooms and seaweed, then seared to establish a slightly crisp, warm outer edge.
The vegan gazpacho, with its beautiful, warm orange tones, was made with fresh figs and topped with an interplay of salty and sweet flavours, all thanks to the crisp dried seaweed and fermented strawberries. Warmed with a dash of Gochujang, a Korean umami-style sauce.
On the right, the two-day sake-marinated scallop, slightly seared over a yakitori grill with compressed pear. Laid in a twist on the classic French beurre blanc sauce, which had been sweetened with yuzu and mandarin.
To help freshen the palate, our next small bite was their take on the classic Spanish aperitif gildas. Smoky, sour, and aromatic, they were the ideal interlude before moving on.
Wrapped in light, crisp nori, the fresh red prawn was complemented by bisque garum and a crustacean chilli crunch - many textures and tastes were packed together in this tiny parcel.
Wild-caught in the north of Spain, the smoked trout (deliciously cured in seaweed) was laid on a crisp bed of cabbage, flavoured with yuzu and sumac spices. Featuring the same rainbow of colours, its vegan twin sister featured a sharp slice of fermented carrot.
A resourceful take on the classic taco shell, they've worked with island-grown shiso leaves (thanks to a partnership with local farmers in San Miguel), allowing the beautifully coloured and fibrous leaves to hold the flavoursome contents perfectly. On one side, roasted yet creamy cabbage and yuca, and on the other, tuna tartar and punchy trout roe that popped in the mouth.
Earthy yet sweet, the beetroot’s flavours were intensified by its time on the grill. On top, a light sprinkling of onion and mushroom dust with its own distinct smoky character.
Chunky and meaty, the five-week-dry-aged Otoro (a marbled cut of tuna belly) was meaty, fatty, and deliciously tender. Kissed by the yakitori grill, served with a pumpkin seed and praline sauce, along with slices of compressed melon.
Alongside, the smoked, confit leek was juicy and rich, sprinkled with crunchy and nutty hazelnuts for a perfect contrast of textures.
To finish, Jorge introduced his sake collection.
On the left, the Sakari Yuzu Sake is from one of Japan's historic breweries, Nihonsakari. Created by blending sake with Japanese yuzu citrus, it exuded a juicy acidity and gentle sweetness.
On the right, the Kinmon Akita X3 Rosé is a distinctive Junmai Genshu made with red rice and around three times the usual amount of koji. The red-fruit notes and savoury finish gave it a rich yet fresh taste.
Dining at The Overall was like being part of a fascinating creative workshop, a place for inquisitive foodies and those keen not only to expand their taste buds but their understanding of gastronomy.
Our advice: make sure to grab front-row seats at the counter so you can enjoy conversations with Jorge. And even if you're a dedicated meat eater, we encourage you to try the vegan menu; you may be surprised at what The Overall can do with the humble vegetable.
For daytime visitors and those who would prefer a more casual dining experience in the evening, Gertrudis Bagel House (The Overall's daytime iteration) offers a taste of these techniques, wrapped in handmade fluffy bread.
To experience the Friday and Saturday evening omakase, reservations are recommended.
