What is the meaning of the word 'luxury' when describing Ibiza's gastro scene today? Is it the opulence, excess and elevated price tags that are found islandwide? Or is it the seamless fusion of the finest elements - produce, place, and person - into a sublime gastronomic experience that resonates long after the last bite?
If you seek the latter, make Cotton Beach Club your next port of call.
Perched directly over one of the smaller coves that make up Cala Tarida Beach, overlooking the golden sands and shimmering blue waters of the Mediterranean, this doyen of Ibiza’s gastro scene has been around for over a decade.
The Spotlight team visited it on a bright, breezy day at the end of September to find out what all the fuss was about.
On our way to the Grand Terrace, we pass the bar - where the amiable Norwegian host Christian Marstrander gives us a warm welcome - and a maestro jamonero (an expert ham carver) stands at his post, slicing finely the slivers of the finest Andalusian cured ham we will savour as one of our starters within minutes. Thence to the terrace, where spectacular sea and coast vistas await us.
The service
Our Maitre D’, the charming, uber-efficient Federica, introduces herself. Immediately, we know we are in capable hands. In their smart white and beige livery, the friendly staff - many of whom have been working here for years - combine all the experience and savoir faire that the devoted gourmand looks for in the best establishments. It’s a joy to watch them at work, like a well-oiled machine.
Drinks
They take our drinks orders effortlessly: sparkling water, cañas of beer, the house’s own delectable champagne (among many other varieties) and signature cocktails. It’s worth noting, by the way, that the Cotton Beach Club has a very extensive wine list with choice bottles from Spain, France, Italy and New Zealand.
Mocktails with a view: Pomelito made with Tequila 0.0, fresh lime juice, topped with pink grapefruit, finished with a salty touch and a Green-T made with fresh cucumber, ginger, celery, apple and pineapple juice.
The soundtrack
With DJ Elliot at the decks, the music - Balearic Chill that’s ideal for a leisurely Mediterranean-style lunch - matches the easygoing milieu to a T. As time progresses and our fellow diners carouse, the tempo picks up and he is accompanied by a saxophonist.
The mood becomes upbeat and infectious, as can be seen by the tables of merry diners around us, tapping their toes, smiling and laughing. It doesn’t come much better than this.
Further proof we’re somewhere classy, sensual, comes in the form of the models who swan through the terrace wearing very becoming beachwear from the Cotton Lifestyle Store, a lovely, airy boutique just beside the entrance that stocks the classic local brand Kurru Kurru.
The menu
Cotton Beach Club serves up Mediterranean/Metro cuisine, with the artful addition of Asian touches that make it stand out.
Starters
Our entrees arrive. The Iberian, acorn-fed ham comes with wafer-thin toast and a savoury tomato dip. Spread out fan-like on the plate, the ruby-red slivers are marbled with glistening threads of white fat. The aroma is rich and complex; the flavour unfolds as nutty, sweet, and slightly earthy - a sublime symphony of umami.
Beside them, fresh oysters (Poget, la fine de claire, no. 3, to be precise) served with caviar and strawberry sauce. Firm and meaty, this full-flavoured shellfish has subtly sweet tones and a clean, mineral finish.
True to form, the beach club has its own Champagne: Cotton Champagne Frerejean Frères Brut Premier Cru, made from Chardonnay & Pinot Noir grapes. No surprise then that its Champagne lunches (served on Fridays, Saturdays, and Sundays) are so popular.
Slow-cooked and grilled on the Josper, the octopus is accompanied by sweet potato puree, black garlic and fresh coriander. Tender and toothsome, it immediately garners rave reviews from the team. Artfully blending sweet and sour and smoky flavours, it’s a harmonious and satisfying creation.
Presentation - as all avid foodies know - is all-important. At the Cotton Club, you get the feeling they could write the manual. The variety of ways the cuisine is served up, the meticulous plating, close attention to textures, shapes and colours, and the inventive final flourishes win us over before we’ve even tasted the creations.
Marinated in fish sauce with egg yolk, the beef steak tartare is one of the best we’ve encountered all summer, hitting just the right note of piquancy.
Burrata and tomato tartare. Comprising seasonal tomatoes filled with dried-tomato pesto and Burrata cheese, scattered with cured black olive crumble and basil oil, this is a mini masterpiece that perfectly offsets the richness of the other dishes.
Sushi time
The Cotton Club takes its Japanese raw cuisine very seriously; witness the Chef’s Plate, a generous platter of Far Eastern delicacies that comes in 25 or 50-piece servings. Comprising sashimi, nigiri and premium rolls, it tastes every bit as delicious as it looks.
The fresh seafood is of top quality, the individual pieces are exquisitely prepared and cut, and the rice is expertly cooked. Within minutes, the only remnant of this mouth-watering en (Japanese for feast) is a few grains of rice.
Much to his surprise, the reviewer is treated to a mid-meal massage from the calming hands of an on-site masseuse. Ready for the next round!
Mains
Experienced diners may feel familiar with seabass in all its versions, but served up with no fewer than two Thai-style nam prik dressings, it’s a revelation. Opened butterfly-style, then grilled over fire, glazed with the red (plum-based) and green (coriander) spicy sauces, it is finally deboned, ready for delectation. Cooked to perfection and delicately seasoned, this freshly caught fish brims with all the goodness of the Mediterranean.
After it, our final main course is brought to the table. Slow-cooked for 24 hours before it is finished off on one of the venue’s two Josper ovens, the lamb (from Salamanca, in the heart of the Castile and León region, famed for its extensive pastures and premier livestock) is served with Mexican-style tortillas, vegetable trimmings and two dips, Hoisin & BBQ. We busy ourselves filling each moreish taco until we are sated.
Desserts
A brace of scrumptious sweets rounded off our flawless feast.
The first, Tamarind Cream, comprised delicate domes of white chocolate, smoked honey and basil, served with a red berry coulis made more exotic by the tangy flavour of tamarind.
The second, an original take on the Italian classic, Tiramisu, featured creamy, amaretto and mascarpone-filled spheres dressed with Santa Teresa Gran Reserva rum and homemade coffee ice cream.
Christian, Federico and Federica
Eager gourmands may be thinking there's just one month left of the season to enjoy this singular culinary experience. Fortunately, however, Cotton Beach Club will remain open throughout the winter, from Thursday through Sunday, offering the island's foodies a serene, chic backdrop for their forays out in search of fine fare and company.
Finally, we recommend making a prior reservation as demand is - understandably - high.
