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Food review: Can Truy brings originality and flair to the rural heartland

New kids on the block making a very proud statement.

Slow-cooked suckling pig and jamón Iberico with teriaki sauce.

Why go? To enjoy a young, innovative team taking risks and creating something original in a peaceful, country setting.

What kind of food is it? An exciting fusion of traditional Mediterranean with unique flavours of the Orient.

What diets does it cater for? With such a diverse menu there is something for everyone.

Ibiza Spotlight tip? Bluefin tuna tartar, all day long…


Venue

After more than 50 years of service in the hands of the same family, Can Truy café and restaurant, near to Santa Eulalia, has now passed to the 3rd generation and this time they are young, enterprising and dynamic. Owner Alex Thomson, only just 23, has teamed up with young chef Jaime Llorente and together they are creating something magical at this pleasant countryside venue.

We arrived at Can Truy without any preconceptions or expectations and yet left extremely surprised in all senses. After a stroll around the extensive grounds of this country finca, exploring the kitchen garden, the charming breakfast café and the unique Polynesian Hangi oven, we settled down for a culinary adventure and were genuinely surprised by the turns we took.

What followed was a succession of clever and well-balanced dishes that both amazed and surprised us. Under the impeccable attention of Alex throughout, who has learned the fine art of service at some top hotels in the United Kingdom, the evening flowed smoothly through six courses, from a quinoa salad aperitif to the very last spoonful of exquisite dessert.


Cuisine

As soon as an aperitif was placed before us, it was evident that something out of the ordinary was about to take place. Every dish we sampled was a new twist on a classic theme, drawing influences from the gastronomy of many cultures, especially from Asia. Key elements of Chinese, Malaysian, Japanese and Korean dishes rub shoulders with the staples of the Spanish kitchen.

Miso, shiso, Hijiki seaweed, yuzu, ginger and galangal all appear on the menu, alongside more familiar, home-grown favourites, such as gazpacho, grilled octopus, suckling pig, sea bass and squid. Many of the dishes are augmented by fresh vegetables grown in the restaurant’s own kitchen garden.


Alex had announced we were going to start with gazpacho. But what arrived was something verging on a work of art - an insight into the preparation skills in Jaime´s kitchen. The complexity of this usually humble dish was truly something to behold.

A Can Truy gazpacho is a delicate combination of avocado, cantaloupe melon, cured beef, avocado flowers, tomato, langoustine tartare, basil ice cream and pomegranate seeds! The result, a refreshingly smooth, sweet and salty amalgam of fruity fishiness, with a satisfying pop of pomegranate. Astonishing…


A resounding favourite of the night was the Bluefin tuna tartar, floating on large, crispy nori chips, with deliciously acidic avocado mousse and topped with fish roe and a quail´s egg. Presented on a bespoke Can Truy platter, this visual masterpiece is a treat for both the eye as well as the palate.


A grilled skate wing, with pickled vegetables, followed on a bed of smoky baba ganoush and udon noodles, finished on the plate with a drizzle of Malaysian red curry sauce. The intensive flavour of the sauce needed a little refinement but drew the dish together in another spectacular display of skill and imagination.


Best of east-meets-west was showcased by a suckling pig belly, slow-cooked for 12.5 hours, with teriyaki sauce, a shredded daikon salad, joined on the platter by a ludicrously succulent rib of jamón ibérico, slow-cooked for 16 hours on a fried shiso leaf - a triumph of technique and respect for the finest ingredients.  


The delicacy of the pastry skills to emerge from Jaime’s kitchen was perfectly demonstrated by a repertoire of desserts. A Spanish classic, Torrija, (known more familiarly in Britain as bread-and-butter pudding) was perfectly executed, as was the Can Truy signature Yuzu Pie. However, the author’s personal favourite was the extraordinary chocolate and coconut panna cotta, with apple ice cream and mint foam. Light and ephemeral, yet utterly delicious.


Throughout every course, Colombian cocktail waiter John kept our wine glasses full and rounded off the evening’s pleasure with a fine trio of classic Martinis. Nothing fancy, just exactly how you would expect them to be - although the Can Truy espresso Martini looked almost too good to drink.


These young guys are developing something new and original at Can Truy by setting themselves very high standards. They are fully deserving of our attention and we strongly recommend you should give them a try on your next visit to Ibiza.

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